The tech pack for clothing contains the visual grammar of garment production. The construction Callouts from the tech pack convert the drawings into a set of instructions. These annotations transform a drawing into a manual of instructions booklet. It contains the details of all the steps and technical aspects of the tech pack. Professional callouts remove the guesswork in the production process.
The flat shows the “what,” and the callouts explain the “how” during the production process. The construction callouts consist of specific notes, arrows, and “zoom bubbles” for alternation. It even explains a complex step of stitching seams. The worker knows exactly how to assemble the pieces without any kind of ambiguity.
The Anatomy of a Professional Callout
The professional callouts have different portions, but their anatomy consists of basically three parts:
- Arrow
- Technical Term
- Quantitative Instruction
The callout in the tech pack for clothing contains an arrow. It points to a specific feature, a technical term, or an abbreviation to explain a term. The quantitative instruction is a method for completing a complex step.
Example:
So instead of a vague note like “sew the hem,” or just sew it, calling out doesn’t explain anything. A professional callout would read: “1/2” Double Needle Topstitch (DNTS) at bottom hem. The operator must enter the exact distance of the stitch, the specific machine for the stitch (double needle), and the location of the garment.
Why Callouts are Critical?
The callouts in the tech pack for clothing remove the guesswork, leading to mistakes or errors. Recently, global production has moved at high speed, and standards have emerged in the production process for every step. A “guess” usually leads to a “reject.”
The Tech Pack Designer uses callouts to clarify:
- Reinforcement: The reinforcement identifies where bartacks or “X-box” stitches are needed. It is usually at the stress points (like pocket corners).
- Internal Views: The internal views use “ghost” lines or separate diagrams. Such a callout shows the whole process of stitching. It explains what is happening inside the garment (e.g., “Interlining at collar stand”).
- Tricky Transitions: The tricky transitions provide information about the complex layout or the steps. It explains how a zipper meets a waistband or how a lining attaches to a vent.
Common Callout Abbreviation & Instruction Table
| Abbreviation | Full Technical Term | Standard Application / Note |
| SNTS | Single Needle Topstitch | Usually 1/16″ or 1/8″ from the edge for a clean finish. |
| DNTS | Double Needle Topstitch | Provides a sporty, durable look for hems and seams. |
| BT | Bartack | Used at pocket openings and belt loops for strength. |
| DTM | Dye to Match | Instructions forthe thread or zipper color to match the fabric. |
| SPI | Stitches Per Inch | Specifies the stitch density (e.g., 12 SPI for high quality). |
| SA | Seam Allowance | The distance between the stitch and the raw edge (e.g., 1cm). |
Take Away:
The tech pack for clothing contains specific callouts. These callouts are the voice of the designer on the factory floor. Professional callouts keep the work on track with the method identified by the tech designers.